Three days is the sweet spot for Rovinj: long enough to slow down into the old town, swim properly, and still get one day out into the rest of Istria. Here's how we'd actually spend it — where to walk, where to swim, where to eat, and when to book ahead. It leans on our own guides throughout, so you can go deeper on anything that catches you.

Day 1 — The old town, slowly

Drop your bags and walk straight into the car-free old town. The whole peninsula is the sight; there's no single route, but aim uphill along Grisia, the steep lane of galleries and studios, until you reach the church at the top.

Sveta Eufemija crowns the town, and its bell tower — a copy of the campanile of St Mark's in Venice, just over 60 metres tall — is worth the climb up the worn wooden stairs for the best view on the coast. Our bell tower guide has the details; the old-town walking guide maps the lanes below.

In the afternoon, drop back down through Balbi's Arch to the harbour, look in at the Batana ecomuseum — the little wooden fishing boat is the town's UNESCO-listed heart — and take your first swim off the flat rocks on the western side, below the old town. No sand, just clear water and pine shade.

For the evening: an aperitivo on the western rocks as the sun goes down, then dinner. Start with our honest restaurant picks, and read what to order before you sit down — this is fuži, fresh fish and truffle country.

Day 2 — Forest, beaches and the islands

Spend the morning south of town in the Zlatni Rt (Punta Corrente) forest park — a 20-minute walk or a flat, easy cycle along the waterfront. The coves here are where locals swim; Lone bay and the rocky Škaraba are the ones to aim for. See all the options in our beach directory.

After lunch, get on the water. Small taxi-boats run all day from the harbour: Sveta Katarina is about five minutes out, and Crveni Otok (Red Island) about fifteen. Both give you an afternoon of swimming with the old-town skyline in the distance — the full rundown is in our islands guide and boat tours guide.

Back for dinner, and if you've the energy, a sunset row-out on a traditional batana is the quietest way to see the town from the water.

Day 3 — Inland, or a slow last day

By day three you've earned a choice. If you want to see more of Istria, everything worth reaching sits within about an hour — the Lim fjord and its oysters, the hill town of Motovun and its truffle woods, or the Roman amphitheatre in Pula. We've laid out the best of them in our day trips from Rovinj guide, and if it's the truffles that tempt you, start with truffles in Istria.

If you'd rather not move, make a slow local day of it: the morning market on Trg Valdibora, a long truffle-fuži lunch, and a final swim at whichever cove became your favourite. Either version is a good last day.

Where to base yourself

Stay inside the old town for the atmosphere — you'll wake up in the postcard, though you'll drag your bags over cobbles and park outside the walls. Stay just outside if you're driving and want the car at the door. Our where to stay guide breaks down the areas; for a private place, see apartments in Rovinj.

Getting around, and when to come

You'll walk almost everything — the old town is car-free and the whole place is small. There are no local town buses; the islands run on taxi-boats, and Istria beyond Rovinj really needs a car. For the practical detail, see getting around and getting to Rovinj.

May, June and September are the best weeks — warm sea, lived-in but not packed. July and August are hot and full; book restaurants and island boats a day or two ahead. Our month-by-month guide has the full picture.

The three days at a glance

• Day 1: Old town — Grisia, the bell tower, Balbi's Arch, the batana museum, a first swim and sunset.
• Day 2: Zlatni Rt forest park and its coves, then a taxi-boat to Sveta Katarina or Crveni Otok.
• Day 3: A day trip inland (Lim, Motovun, Pula) — or a slow market-and-swim finish.

Three days done right, and you'll leave already planning the next visit — most people do.